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Friday, September 18, 2009

Curing Onions

by Sadge, at Firesign Farm
The harvest continues. Granted, growing and storing your own onions isn't something everyone will want to do, but this is how I do it. When the first of my mature onion plants started to flop over a couple of weeks ago, I pulled the soaker hose off and bent down the rest. This gives notice to the onions that it's time to transfer all energy from the leaves down into their bulbs, and as the soil dries out the outer-most layers will start to toughen.

Next step is to dig up the plants, leaving them out in the sun for a day to kill off the wiry roots, then move them onto screens under the shade of the trees until the tops dry out too. If, or when, autumn rains threaten, I move them inside the sun-warmed garage to keep them dry and to continue curing.

Not all onions store well. Sweet raw sandwich-type onions won't store at all, and red ones usually not for very long. You have to start with the pungent yellow or white varities specifically labeled as storage onions to have them last through the winter. The little bags of onion sets sold in the big-box stores in Spring usually aren't storage onions, but you can play with curing the mature ones to see how well they'll do under your storage conditions. I like Copra onions when I can get them (my local garden store sells onion plants by the bunch in late winter), but this year had to go with Big Daddy so will see how they compare. If necessary, I might have to go back to raising my own storage onions from seed to get the kind I want.

I pick out the thick-necked onions and ones that formed a flower stalk (they won't dry well enough to store), damaged ones, and the ones that didn't form a nice bulb, and bring them into the house to use now for canning tomato sauce and salsa. The rest will cure in the warm airy garage, the longer the better, until the the leaves crumble off at the neck and outer skins rattle, so they'll keep in storage.

Onions store best in a cool (but not freezing) and dry spot. They can be braided, the same as garlic when the stems are still flexible, but I've found the stem often won't hold the weight of the bulb and an onion falls and bruises. They can also be stored in net bags, like I do my shallots (I reuse the net stocking-like bags oranges are sold in at Christmas-time for shallots - hanging them from a ceiling hook in my pantry), but it's harder to pull out ones that are starting to soften early enough to prevent them from spoiling the others. Some folks recommend using old pantyhose, dropping an onion into the toe, tying a knot, add another onion, knot, and repeat until both legs are full and hang the whole thing up. That's a bit too labor-intensive for my tastes.

I just store my cured onions in open shallow baskets down near the floor in my cellar, the coolest spot. That way, it's easy to sort through each winter week and bring up the ones that need to be used up first. My onions usually last at least until April, when I can then start on the first of the perennial Spring onions coming up out in the garden.

12 comments:

Anonymous said...

For several years, in CT, I raised Copra onions from seed. Started indoors along with my lettuce and set out the same time. They grew to about tennis ball size and stored forever.

Chiot's Run said...

I've never had good luck growing onions here, too much shade I think, and bad soil. I do raise onions from seed and I raised some Italian heirlooms this year that are supposed to be good for storing. They're all small, but still tasty!

Kimberly said...

Perfect timing for me! I'll be pulling onions next week I think. I've never grown them before so I need the help you share. Thanks!

Onesimus said...

Thanks for the very useful information.

I have a lot of onions that are doing very well at the moment but they won't be ready for a few months yet.

Unfortunately most of them are red so we'll have to eat a lot of onions in a short time to make the most of them.

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for the advice, as I'm new to growing onions and found this very informative!
I'ts wonderful to have nice people willing to share knowledge that we have lost.

Annodear said...

That was very interesting.

Do you know why, when you bend down the stalks, that it "gives notice to the onions that it's time to transfer all energy from the leaves down into their bulbs"?

Crunchy Christian Mom said...

Oh, thank you! It's so nice to know I cured my onions properly, if only by accident. :) They're piled on top of my fridge right now, which, oddly enough, is a fairly cool spot.

Sadge said...

Hi, Annodear! No, sorry, I don't know the scientific reasons. But I do know that onions are very sensitive to length of daylight in their growing conditions - even to the point that specific varieties grow to maturity only in southern summer days while other "long-day" varieties are better suited for growing up north here while the earth is tilted towards the sun.

Since I wait until some of the onions start to flop over on their own, thus signaling that their season has run its course, I guess it's just pushing the rest of them a bit into the same timeframe. I don't cut the tops off - just let them shrivel up on their own as the onions cure - so all the energy does end up in the bulb. It's the same as letting the tops stay on your Spring flowering bulbs if you want flowers again next year.

Margaret said...

I didn't get to the drying stage:( Most of my onions rotted in the ground. What am I doing wrong? I used the onion sets from a big-box store but maybe I have to start them from seeds?

Helen said...

I have grown both red and white onions for many years. I usually grow Stuttgatrter Giant or Sturon from purchased sets. I have never found any difference in the keeping qualities of the two different colour of onions. I store them in a cool environment in a wire basket so the air can circulate freely around them. Some years I leave them outside in the basket and they tolerate below freezing temperatures,if their skins are dry, without coming to any harm. This summer's crop has been good here in central France despite a hot dry summer and not being watered. I should have enough to see us through the winter until the end of March when they will start to sprout again.

MAYBELLINE said...

THIS was very helpful. Thanks.

Tammy Renee' Cupp said...

I love your blog! I don't comment much but I read it faithfully! Great work!

Tammy